Introduction

Welcome to Barker's European Tours (BET) I began organizing group trips to Europe in 1978 with a group of 76 high school singers on a three-week concert tour. I intended this to be a "one time only" experience, but two years later, the next group was saying, "Hey, it's our turn!" After the third great trip and leaving high school choral directing in 1982, I figured that my tour days were over.

At The University of Texas at San Antonio I found myself teaching Masterpieces of Music and for years I would tell my students as kind of a joke, "When you get to Europe, make sure you see the. . . ." In the spring of 1989, one of the students (also jokingly) said: "Why don't you take us?" Barker's European Tours was born within the year. In the intervening years, I've crossed the pond too many times and have led over 50 tours. Clients have become friends. Friends have become clients.

I now live in Sarnano, Italy, attempting to eliminate some of the wear and tear of constantly flying back and forth across the Atlantic. Okay, so the wine is inexpensive and good, and I've purchased a very affordable apartment. But the main reason I live here is so I can serve you better by finding that magic, out-of-the-way town or the new 4-star hotel in Rome.

My trips work and are different from typical group tours. They incorporate the savings of group travel without the numbing regimentation, include enough carefully chosen activities so you will know the cities we visit, and allow free time for personal curiosities and pleasures. I choose good, safe hotels in attractive locations and use public transportation where practical. My groups are relatively small with an average size of twenty people. The focus is Europe, the European experience, and more recently, the effect of Europe on other regions (see Oaxaca, Morocco, Egypt). I strive for a relaxed pace and work to achieve a balance between free time and structured activities.

For my tours to work (or any tour for that matter), there are some restrictions. Participants are limited to one piece of luggage and a carryon. For most trips, I highly recommend upright wheeled luggage with a detachable daypack (JanSport, Eagle Creek). If you are still young, an internal frame backpack/suitcase will be your best choice. In either case, all participants must be physically capable of handling their own luggage. These tours are designed for active adults and college age students. Younger students (with family) and seniors are welcome--provided they are independent travelers. I reserve the right to cancel a person's participation before a tour if it becomes obvious to me that the activities may be too strenuous or inappropriate.



“World Headquarters” of BET	View of Sarnano	View from my desk in Sarnano

Tour preparation

First of all, read this booklet. Do not see it as a “my way or the highway” but instead as a compilation of things that have worked for me and for previous BET travelers. Most of the suggestions are of the common sense variety--you will read them and think, “well I knew that already.” But read on, you may find some things you never considered before. After the tour, you may have some suggestions for additions or deletions.

Since I don’t run 24/7, wall-to-wall, “let me entertain you” tours, you will find it helpful to pick up a GUIDEBOOK or two. Browse through the travel section of Bookstop, Barnes & Noble, or any other good bookstore. I recommend either the Baedeker's or the Green Michelin guidebooks for encyclopedic coverage for both cities and countries. Birnbaum's gives great coverage for countries and culture. The Insight City Guides are a wonderful pre and post tour read--you really get a feel for the places. There are other guides that are good. The Let's Go . . . series put out by the Harvard students (and the UC Berkeley equivalent) is great for the young and adventurous. And the Blue Guides and Cadigan have their followers. For the art museums, check out Europe 101 and Mona Winks. These are clear, concise art guides and funny. Use Frommer’s and Fodor’s to introduce you to the cities and for packing suggestions. Most everything else that they cover is already done for you on the tour. You don't need restaurant and hotel recommendations since I will have already chosen them.

Beware of the recommendations that you read in the local newspapers and the slick magazines. Sometimes these articles are long on entertainment and short on accurate information. Skip your Aunt Dorothy and Uncle Ned's recommendation for that great little restaurant they found in Paris ten years ago. It has either changed, gone out of business, or is closed on the one day that you could go, and you'll have wasted half a day trying to find it.

I encourage you to GET IN SHAPE before the tour. About one month before the tour, up your physical activity a notch or two. You are going to walk more than usual, since most of the sites that we will visit involve walking. European cities were not designed for the car--Europeans walk far more than we do. Also, you will be dealing with luggage, stress, jet lag and other travel indignities. You'll be happier if you can take the stresses in stride.

You will need to deal with LANGUAGE(S) while on the tour.

Old Joke:
    Q. What do you call someone who speaks two languages?
        A. Bilingual.
    Q. What do you call someone who speaks three languages?
        A. Trilingual.
    Q. What do you call someone who only speaks one language?
        A. An American.

On that account, I am an American. I'm living in Sarnano, Italy, and studied Italian for eight, four-week sessions while living in Verona. I have some of the basics of Italian down, but still have a difficult time communicating. Anyone who tries to tell you that you can “speak fluent Spanish (Italian, French, German, whatever)” after listening to a record or reading a book is feeding you a fairy tale.

Some suggestions for the linguistically challenged.

Think of the game of charades. Use meaningful body language and hand gestures.

Use the KISS principle—Keep It Simple, Stupid. Your waiter or salesperson will have some English. Use simple declarative sentences. When asked, answer in as few words as possible. For instance, if the waiter asks you if you want coffee, don't respond with “Well I've already had three cups today, so I don't think I want any more coffee.” The only thing your waiter will hear is “Coffee” and that is what he will bring.

Listen to announcements on public transportation even if you can't understand much of what is being said. You'll at least learn how to pronounce the place names.

Try to learn the numbers. Then try to ask for your room key. The front desk person may chuckle, but will appreciate your effort.

You do not need to be able to speak any of the languages. If you want to and have the time, take a language class before you go--it will add to your enjoyment of the trip. [One note for those of you who do speak the language—please-please-please do NOT choose to practice your language skills when we are ordering at the restaurant and engage the waiter in extraneous conversation.]

Know what is on the ITINERARY. I need you to be active on the Internet as I will keep the preliminary itinerary on my web page, www.barkereurotours.com, as we go along. Read through it and make suggestions. My tours are small enough that I can often accommodate individual requests. Approximately two weeks before the tour, I will finalize the itinerary. This is an important document that outlines exactly what our tour does and does not include. Print a copy and make notes on it to bring with you on the tour. (If you are not active on the internet, contact Sara Lewis toll free at 1 877 896 8747, and she will keep you up to date.)

[Please make sure you are signed on for the right tour. I offer varied experiences from structured “guest expert” tours to less structured tours. Make sure the tour you sign up for is the type of experience you want. If all you want is to “do your own thing,” I can accommodate you on some of the tours--up to a point. On the other hand, if you need to be entertained on a 24-hour basis, you might want to cancel now rather than be disappointed later. In all cases I expect maturity from my fellow travelers and a willingness to play the game.]

Finally, if you are not already a member, enroll in the frequent flyer program of the airline we will be using. One flight over and back earns you almost half the miles needed for a domestic flight.



The Roman Theater in Plovdiv	Before lunch at the Sibilla	“New street” (that’s its name) in Pienza

Passports & Packing

Passport

You are going to need a valid PASSPORT. If you already have one, find it and make sure it is valid through the end of your tour. If you don't have one, start the process now. Passports are now valid for ten years. so there is no rational reason to put off the process. Go to the post office and pick up the forms. Follow the directions (birth certificate, photos, etc.) Turn the completed form back in to the post office and they will send it on to Houston or the nearest center. The process can take two months, so don't procrastinate. There have been problems in the past of people missing a tour because their passport did not arrive in time.

When you have your passport, you might want to make a photocopy of the front page with your picture on it (along with credit card numbers and birth certificate). Take this copy with you on the tour, but keep it separate from your passport. Then, if the passport is stolen on the tour, you'll have an easier time replacing it.

Before turning to luggage and packing, you need to know the weather. When asked, "What is the weather like?" my cop out answer is, "Well, it varies." It will be colder than San Antonio (usually) in the winter, but not as cold as the East Coast US. It will be about a month behind San Antonio in the spring. Usually the temperatures are cooler in the summer. Most of the guidebooks listed earlier will give you a more precise picture, but weather, after all, is not constant. For up to date weather information, check with a newspaper, or go online to any number of sites (CNN, Weather .com, Washington Post, etc.) The next BET destination is usually posted on the BET web page.

Luggage

Your choice of luggage is the most important decision for the success of the tour for you AND your fellow travelers. Bags that work for car and airline travel within the states do not work in Europe. Porters are rare. Even on tours where I can provide baggage handling, there are still times that you have to pick up your bag and move it, by yourself . No matter what you choose, you are limited to one bag that you check and one that you carry on the plane. That doesn't mean a checked bag, a carry on, an enormous purse, make-up kit and a camera bag. Two bags that you can carry. Period. End of discussion. (Okay, you can sneak a duffle bag in your luggage going over in case the shopping bug hits.)

I have learned the above lesson from some 50+ tours. American luggage manufacturers just did not keep pace with travel realities until recently. Early in BET history, I required a backpack (I still recommend one if your joints are still functioning). Luckily, the baby boomers have aged, the manufacturers have adjusted and functioning, attractive luggage is now available.

Frankly, there is only one type of luggage that I can recommend for most anyone at this point: Vertical, wheeled luggage, preferably soft-sided. I have used an Eagle Creek bag for years now, and recommend it. Bigger is better is the American way, but resist the urge. Go beyond 44cm wide (about 17 inches) and 68cm tall (26 inches) and you are asking for trouble. The wheels do make it convenient, but occasionally you have to pick it up and carry it. If you have pushed the limit, you might find yourself in a whole lot of pain.

IN SUMMARY: I spend a significant part of my life traveling. This means I spend an inordinate amount of time in airports, hotels, train stations, on trains, and walking in European cities. I watch other travelers, observing what works, what doesn't. The recommended bags work. They will see you through any situation on any one of my tours. And, whatever you choose, remember that you are limited to a checked bag and a carryon.



	The first bag is the recommended vertical, soft-sided, wheeled luggage. This bag has traveled with me for over 5 years. The second is a convertible backpack with day-pack. If you are still young, this is your best choice. Pack light: You don’t want to end up being a pack mule.

Now that we have established what to carry, we turn to the important matter of:

What to take

The following list is a synthesis of several guidebooks, and has been revised with recommendations from previous groups. Common sense dictates that you travel as light as possible. Aim for 20-30 lbs. (female) 30-40 lbs. (male) as an absolute maximum for everything. (You will "gain weight" as you go along, picking up little souvenirs and gifts. Start off light.) Try to bring items that see double duty.

CLOTHING
Bring clothes that are durable and easy to wash and dry. Avoid items that are 100% cotton; a 60-40 blend is almost as comfortable and much easier to wash. (Yes, you are going to have to deal with laundry. Don't even dream about taking enough separate outfits for a two-week tour.) Smaller numbers in the list below imply doing a hand washing on a nightly basis. Larger numbers assume finding a laundromat at some point mid-way through the tour. Color coordinate so you can mix and match. You'll need at least one "nice" outfit for concerts and classy restaurants. This does not need to be a separate outfit. Dark slacks or skirt, shirt or blouse and a sweater or blazer will work. Add a tie if you are male. If your tour lasts only a week, add a few more clothes and take out the laundry supplies. Bring what you need, need what you bring.

Rainproof (GORE-TEX or similar) jacket. Winter travelers will need to add a sweater for layering, gloves and headgear.

2 or 3 pairs comfortable shoes. Bring waterproof boots in winter. No high heels. One pair must be a comfortable walking shoe with a non-slip tread.

4 to 6 shirts/blouses. Long-sleeved in winter, short in summer. Bring at least one long-sleeved shirt/blouse in summer

3 pants, slacks, skirts

Coat/tie or dress if concerts are on the itinerary(doesn't have to be a separate outfit).

2-6 pairs underwear (one pair thermal or silk in winter)

2-6 pairs of socks, women substitute 3-4 pair stockings

1 nightie, pjs or T-shirt for sleeping (there may be a fire drill at the hotel).

Modest shorts (optional) in summer.

MAINTENANCE

Refillable water bottle, a durable plastic canteen type that won't leak. Water is not always available when you need it: Carry it or plan to spend $2.00-3.00 daily buying it. (Of course you can reuse the plastic bottle. The only problem is that if the maid finds it she will think it is trash and throw it away.)

Survival stash. A Ziploc bag with granola bars, nuts, and/or dried fruit to tide you over if you wake up with the munchies at 2:00 a.m. before you adjust to local time, or if the promised dining car on the train gets left off.

Umbrella, telescoping type (Skip if you have a GORE-TEX jacket).

Sturdy container of laundry detergent.

Travel hangers, clothesline, and clothespins (Optional. I use hangers )

Toiletries (small sizes), wash cloth or nylon net (surprisingly, wash cloths are seldom available)

Alarm clock or watch with alarm. The times I put in the itinerary are not suggestions. Please don't inconvenience the group by being late. You will need to be on time.

Small packages of facial tissue. (I’m ambivalent here. If you really need them, you can't possibly bring enough. And they are readily available in Europe. Bring a packet or two and see how you do.)

Ziploc bags (1 gal. size, freezer)--packing aid, wet laundry or dirty clothes carrier, etc.

Prescription drugs: make sure you bring everything that you use or might need.

Duplicate glasses/contacts and everything you need to maintain these items.

Small sewing kit in case you lose a button.

Small first aid kit.

Non-prescription drugs and sundries.

The following items have proved very useful on past trips for some obvious and not so obvious reasons:

Advil or Ibuprofen. Good for aches and pains.

Dramamine. Necessary if you are subject to motion sickness.

Nyquil. Can help you sleep if you get the sneezles.

Pepto Bismol tablets for minor tummy upsets and Immodium for more serious disruptions

Aspirin. for headaches.

Sudafed, Claritin. In case of allergies to cigarette smoke or feather pillows.

Talcum powder. In case you get a rash.

Ear plugs, eyeshades. Helps for sleep on the plane.

Melatonin. Sleep aid that helps you adjust to new time zones.

Metamucil. The high fat, low fiber meals can cause some problems.

Airborne, a new dietary supplement that helps boost the immune system

OPTIONAL

Calculator: to determine costs in US$.

Small flashlight (a penlight has served me well on several occasions).

Swiss Army Knife w/corkscrew (or pocketknife and a corkscrew). In post 9/11 travel, make sure that you put this in your checked luggage.

Inflatable pillow

Strapping tape: One roll for 4 people. Great for temporary luggage repairs or to wrap a box to ship purchases back home.

Electrical adapter and converter (necessary if you bring any appliance that needs electricity such as the next three items):

Small hair dryer, but most of my hotels provide them.

Digital camera or camcorder, battery charger

Small travel iron, but again every hotel makes these available. Ask at the front desk.

Plastic/acrylic glass or folding cup.

Bandanna or small towel (use as tablecloth, napkin, lap cloth, scarf).

Small guidebooks. and/or foreign language dictionary.

Pen/pencil, diary/journal.

Paperback book for plane.

Student ID if currently enrolled in school

Nail scissors, emery board. (Put in checked luggage.)

Address book or pre addressed labels for post cards, letters

Small, sturdy duffel bag rolled into your luggage to carry home "goodies" if you plan to shop.

Sturdy tube for posters and prints.

TRAVEL DOCUMENTS AND CARDS (Carried on your body at all times)

Passport, travelers checks, cash, student ID, drivers license, airline ticket and Eurailpass or train tickets.

Credit Card(s) and your ATM card for your bank

Long distance phone card purchased in Europe.

For the items above use a neck safe, money belt, hidden pocket, or document pouch. Keep your passport, airline and train tickets or passes on your body at all times. Keep credit cards and money in separate places so if you lose one, you won't be without the other. Don't flash large amounts of cash. Carry only what you need for the day with you. Keep the rest of your stash in the hotel safe or on your body.

If you insist on carrying a purse, Eagle Creek offers a small canvas bag that has a shoulder strap and a belt loop. It carries as much as many purses, but doesn't scream "money!" And it can be secured to your body. The easiest purse solution for travel clutter (not valuables) is the daypack that is part of the recommended luggage. It attaches to the main bag for transit and can be carried separately after we get into our hotel.

LEAVE AT HOME -

Personal stereo. From past experience, the Walkman or Discman is a major nuisance with the tapes or CD’s, batteries, headphones and attendant clutter. This was a unanimous recommendation from the tour members--even the younger ones--who brought stereos on earlier tours. However, the new iPod may be an exception.

Hard-side cosmetic case. Use a foldable fabric/plastic type or Ziploc bags.

Expensive jewelry. Don't take anything that has great value to you.

Purses. A purse just screams: "Steal me." A "good" purse (Gucci, Dooney & Bourke, Coach) screams louder: "Steal me because I hold big $$$!" A purse has to be carried, kept track of, kept an eye on. . . LEAVE ALL PURSES AT HOME!

HAND LAUNDRY SUGGESTIONS

I hear you: “I’m not going all the way to Europe just to do laundry.” And, by the same token, I never dreamed that I would be offering “how to” suggestions on the subject. However, clean clothing is desirable and laundromats are few and far between. Of course the hotel will do your laundry, but at a price many of us find excessive. Hand laundry in the basin is the solution.

First thing, choose clothing that will dry. 60/40% blends are about as comfortable as cotton and will dry overnight. Levis take forever to dry, but mercifully they never look that dirty so you usually don't have to deal with them on a short tour. Leave all-cotton socks at home. There are some good blends sold in sporting goods stores that will dry quickly, and, more importantly, keep your feet dry when you are wearing them. Tilley’s makes travel underwear that is as comfortable as cotton but will dry overnight.

Bring a small amount of detergent from home in a secure package. Travel stores sell packets, but at a premium. You might also want to invest in a universal stopper, sold in supermarkets, just in case the drain plug in your room is missing or doesn't work.

Don't put off doing the laundry until you've built up a major project. Doing a few things every night is much easier than dealing with your entire wardrobe in the middle of the tour.

Put a small amount of detergent in the basin and fill with warm water. Put the clothes in (of course after separating) and allow to soak for a while. Slosh around, checking to see if stains are coming out. When you've achieved an acceptable level of cleanliness (no, it will not be as good as your washer at home), drain and squeeze out as much suds as possible. Now here is the key part--rinse, rinse, and rinse again. Otherwise, you will be wearing cardboard. And you might break out in a rash in a very uncomfortable area.

To dry, wring out as much water by hand, and then roll the wet clothes in a towel and twist. Hang to dry where convenient. If it is spring or summer, you might be able to open the window. I get good results just hanging things in the closet (with door open, of course.) The next morning, most everything should be dry. If not, and we are leaving that day, put the damp clothes in a zip lock bag and finish the drying when we get to the next destination.



Group photo in Sahara Desert, Egypt	Carrol subjecting herself to a temporary tattoo in Morocco	Live snake for a necklace? Only in Morocco

On tour

DEPARTURE: In an earlier, pre airline deregulation and 9/11 times, we would all fly over together. Now, it is usually better for all if you arrange your own flight, but there are exceptions. On the day of departure, arrange to be dropped off at the airport at least two hours before the flight departs. Go directly to the airline ticketing counter--you can't check in for an international flight at curb side. When checking in, make sure the airline has your frequent flyer number. (You only need to do this once, the first time you check in.)

Prepare your bag to check in for the flight over. Tighten all the compression straps on the backpacks and then secure them so they won't get caught on the conveyor belt. You will be checking your bag through to our final destination. Make sure that the airline has put the right destination code on your bag--LGW for London Gatwick, LHR-London Heathrow, MUC Munich, MXP-Milan, FCO-Rome, MAD-Madrid, ORY-Paris Orly, CDG-Paris Charles de Gaulle, ATH-Athens, VIE-Vienna. (Do not consider carrying on all of your luggage. There are usually too many of us and we would overwhelm the interior storage of the plane.)

Those of you with backpacks or Cargo Switchbacks: Use your daypack as a carry on. In it, have your filled water bottle, a paperback book, prescription drugs that you can't be without, and underwear and sleepwear in case yours is the one bag in 2,000 that is temporarily delayed. Be at the departure gate ready for boarding no later than a half-hour before scheduled takeoff.

THINGS THAT GO BUMP IN THE FLIGHT: Statistically, you are safer on the plane than when you were driving to the airport, so kick back and enjoy. If you have never flown before, Ill be happy to let you know what is happening (I have a private pilots license). Your major chore is to avoid terminal boredom. Sleep, read, watch the movie, eat, drink, and walk around. And then do it all over again. A word of praise for the airlines here: it is fashionable to knock the industry for the cattle car seating, plastic meals, vacuous service, but back off. They make it possible for us to get over to Europe at an affordable price. The service on the international flights is usually of a high standard, and they do everything to keep us from being bored spit less.

JET LAG: There are various theories for beating this very real malady. Most of the “cures” that I have read about seem to be more painful than jet lag itself. Previous groups have done best by avoiding coffee, Coke, and other caffeine drinks and eating and drinking alcohol moderately, if at all. Taking a Melatonin tablet after dinner on the flight has worked for others and me. You might want to check with your doctor first.

The main problems are sleep deprivation and dehydration. For the latter, drinking lots of water on the flight will help as you are in an extremely dry environment for almost 13 hours. (And then, because you are going to need to get rid of this water, you will tend to walk around more during the flights. And walking around keeps you from getting too stiff.) For the first problem, sleep (if you can) on the plane. On arrival, shower or take a bath to help re hydrate , then stretch out and take a nap. But set an alarm so you don't sleep for more than two hours. In a day or two, your IQ and your zest for life should come back to their previous levels.

ARRIVAL: After we arrive, your first chore is to clear customs. Your passport will be inspected and maybe stamped. Then pick up your luggage at the carousel and meet as a group outside. Follow me to the airport transportation. We'll all be sleep-deprived: stay cool.

And stay alert: You must be most wary in transition times at the airport, both departure and arrival; arrival in the first city when you are jet-lagged and weary; when you first get into the hotel lobby; when first boarding the train and attention is focussed elsewhere. Take off the airline baggage tags--they announce to the world that you just arrived. And you need to be careful in the streets and on public transportation

ITINERARY: It is your responsibility to follow the itinerary. Please note that the times that I put down are real times. I do not fudge in half-hour "just in case" times. If you miss the plane, you're going to have to negotiate with the airline to see if you can be put on a later flight. If you miss a train in Europe, you had better have your itinerary along so you can catch up with us at the next stop. You will not be reimbursed for any costs incurred for missing a departure.

TRAIN TRAVEL DAYS: I usually use buses now. But if train travel is on the itinerary, please observe the following: You are "paying" me to get you on and off the right train. If I tell you to get on the train, get on the train. If I don't tell you to get on the train, don't. Even when you think you know which car to get on, wait! (Backpackers: Leave your pack on your back as you board the train- it's easier to move in the aisles with it on rather than trying to carry it in your hands.) Most of the time I will make reservations for us--we will be assigned to a specific car and seats. When I know far enough in advance, I will include the numbers in the itinerary. Train seating will either be open with 2/1 seating or in compartments with 6 seats each. After the train is under way and if there is room, don't be afraid to change seats. Too many times on past tours I've had tour members stay jammed in a crowded car, unwilling or unable to move to the next car which was virtually empty!

Ten to fifteen minutes before arrival time start gathering up your belongings. Go to the bathroom if necessary. We will not stop for you to go tinkle in the station. Do it on the train. It is infinitely easier to use the WC on the train rather than trying to find it in the crowded station when we arrive. As we are approaching our town, start helping each other with the backpacks. When the train stops at the station, get off, move out of the way of other passengers and wait for me to exit. Some stops are terminal points for our train and there will be plenty of time, other stops may only be for 2-3 minutes. This doesn't call for a Maalox moment. Just be ready to move.

I'll often put us on public transportation. It is safe, convenient and infinitely less expensive than chartered buses. (These savings are reflected in the cost of the tour.) Remember, before you board the bus, subway or metro, you need to make sure that you are pickpocket-proof as you are easily spotted as a tourist. Again, if I tell you to get on a bus, get on. If I don't, don't.

WALKING AS A GROUP: Please be wary. Don't just follow the group, lemming-like, into a busy street. The light may have changed, or a driver may be inattentive (or hostile). I will lead and will try to set a pace that is quick but possible to follow. Be alert to where you are, follow the landmarks so you can find your way back, and keep me in sight at all times. This is not a time for involved conversations. Keep walking, no talking, no shopping, no stopping. Let's get to where we are going and then relax.

BUS TRAVEL DAYS: Where we use chartered buses rather than trains, there are some trade-offs. We won't have the tyranny of the train schedule and we can be a little more flexible, but we still have to leave on time! It is highly annoying to have to wait over and over for the perennial latecomer. Someone has to be last. No one has to be late.

HOTELS: I choose hotels that are clean, safe, and centrally located. I make sure that most of the people at the front desk speak a form of English. When you have questions as to how to get a ticket to a play or concert, where to change money, which bus to take where, ask the front desk or the concierge. You will find these folks always to be helpful.

Most of the hotels have mini-bars. Please do not mistakenly think that the hotel is extending a warm welcome with free drinks--you will find a price list located somewhere nearby. Use the mini-bar at your own discretion, and allow plenty of time to pay the bill before departure. (You will sometimes find the mini-bar a convenient place for you to chill your own drinks and juices.)

When leaving the hotel for an outing, leave the key at the front desk (assuming that there is a key rather than the coded card that is becoming increasingly common). This way you are not in danger of locking your roommate out of the room.

There is always a bathroom in your room. On some of my earlier tours, I did save us money on several occasions, but I found that most everyone would rather pay a little bit more for this convenience. And speaking of:

TOILETS, WC: "I'll never pay to pee!" yelped one indignant young student at one of my pre tour meetings when I offered the sound advice to always carry some small change in local currency for the use of a restroom. I chuckled, knowing full well that within three days of landing in Europe we would all gladly pay, and pay dearly, for the privilege of getting a little relief.

Finding a toilet, free or otherwise, can be a bit of a problem. As mentioned earlier, you have one in your hotel room. And you will find toilets in restaurants, train cars, and museums. It is harder to find them in other public areas. You need to develop the technique of locating a facility before desperation hits. You might want to master at least one foreign phrase, "Where is the toilet?" before going over, though I've found a quizzical look coupled with a pained expression has gotten me pointed in the right direction. Note my use of the word “toilet” which is far more universal than the more euphemistic bathroom or restroom. WC is even more universal, but the “W” is pronounced differently in every language.

And then, after finding and using the equipment, you'll discover that American Standard is not the world standard. How do you flush the darn thing? There are some ingenious systems over there, but not all of them obvious. Look around and try lifting or pulling various knobs and you'll soon be rewarded with the flush.

Mercifully, there no longer is the prevalence of that pink crepe/toilet paper that combined the abrasiveness of sandpaper with the absorbency of waxed paper. However, many of us carry small packs of Kleenex, just in case.

Winter travel warning for men only: (Women may read for entertainment) In winter, the following scenario has happened several times. It’s cold, maybe a little below freezing. We are coming back from lunch or a walking tour. Perhaps a beer or two has been consumed. You feel the urge, but not to worry, the hotel is nearby. When you get into the hotel and the first wave of warm air greets you, the urge quickly takes on panic proportions. By the time you have your room key and are in the elevator, you are hopping up and down on one foot. Then there is a mad dash to the room and to the restroom. And then comes the problem: The extra layer—thermal underwear--that you are not used to dealing with in San Antonio. Maintain your vigil until you have solved everything and have business in hand; otherwise you will soon have a wet and warm sensation probably not experienced since age three. This seems to be a guy thing; I have never heard of women having the problem.

RETURN FLIGHTS: Your return flight is included, of course, as part of your ticket. You may or may not be flying with the group, depending on your choice. And I probably will not be returning with the group, since I now live in Italy. If you are returning with the group, the airport transfer is included with the tour. If you are traveling independently, you will need to arrange to be at the airport two hours before the flight. Follow the airline's directions and you'll be fine. Remember that jet lag also kicks in coming back, so keep draining the water bottle and again use moderation in food and drink. The flight over was overnight. The return flight will be during the day, and because you are moving with the sun, the flight will take only the one day.

You will clear customs when you first land in the USA. You will first go through passport control, then pick up your luggage, and then return it to the airline after clearing customs. Follow the airline's directives. “Nothing to declare” is what you indicate unless you are of the obvious “shop ‘til you drop” type.



Our guide explaining things in Sevilla	Group picture on Spain-Morocco tour	The Medina in Marrakech, Morocco

Security

I need to preface this section with a couple of truisms. You are safer in the large cities of Europe than you are in the large cities of America. If you become a victim of crime, it will probably be a crime for profit and not for harm. And the European thug types are not armed to the teeth, as are their American counterparts. However, having your money, credit cards and travel documents stolen can put a damper on your trip, my trip, and everybody’s trip.

After having had countless attempts at my wallet (one successful), I can speak with some authority about pickpockets. They seldom work alone. One or two of the crew will distract you while the other relieves you of your valuables. The distraction can be an “accidental” push or shove, or solicitous “cleaning” your pants or shirt from some stain (that they have caused). Since your brain tends to focus on only one physical stimulus at a time, the push, shove or brushing gets your full attention while your wallet gets lifted from your pocket.

Personally, after countless trips and too many encounters with the pickpockets, I carry my valuables in an Eagle Creek Hidden Pocket, either in a Velcro inner pocket or secured onto my belt and stuffed inside my pants. My wallet goes in a front, Velcro pocket. If I am carrying my wallet in an unsecured pocket, I will carry very little money in it.

I am extremely leery about fanny packs and vests. These two items are very popular with Americans. There is no question about their convenience, but sometimes I wonder if they are not too convenient for the pickpocket. If you use a fanny pack, secure the zipper with a twisty and don't carry anything too valuable in it. If you use a vest make doubly sure that nobody has seen where you put your stash.

I offer the following suggestions:

Forget the conceit that you are going to blend in with the locals. Clothing, speech, even the way you move will betray your identity. If I can spot Americans halfway down the street, know that the pickpockets are even more skilled.

Remember that you are a target. You have your valuables in your possession. You may not think of yourself as being rich, but if you are carrying ten days worth of spending money, you could enrich a thief very nicely.

Couples: carry your own travel documents rather than putting them all together in one place (usually the wife's purse, which she's leaving home anyway!) Split up the credit cards (don't carry duplicates) and the cash so that if one of you is "hit" you don't lose everything.

Take along only what you need for the day and carry your travel documents on your body in a secure way. Leave everything else in the hotel safe.

In the hotel room, make sure that your door is locked. The doors do not automatically lock in some rooms--you sometimes have to use your key. (Incidentally, in all my years of travel, I have never had anything taken out of my hotel room.)

MEN: Don't believe for a moment that carrying your wallet in the front pocket will thwart pickpockets. They can grab it from the front as easily as the rear.

WOMEN: Your purse is one of the most popular targets. I will do my best to convince you not to take one on the tour. If you insist on taking a purse, please don't carry anything valuable in it.

Beware of the gypsies, particularly in Italy. A common sight is the young mother with her sleeping (drugged) baby, silently holding out her hand. Seemingly, there is no danger here. But if you reach in your belongings to get a donation, please know that your act has been witnessed and you will be targeted by a pickpocket, or worse, by one of the roving bands of dirty-faced gypsy kids who suddenly appear with pieces of cardboard to confuse you and to hide their talented little hands. (These little buggers are good.) As suddenly as they appear, they will disappear along with your money, credit cards and passport. If these kids confront you, scream "gypsies" and create a scene. Do not for a second reach for your wallet to reward them.

The above suggestions are aimed at avoiding thievery. Robbery is another matter. Luckily, incidence of robbery per se is low. There seems to be an unwritten rule that low-level crime can be tolerated to a point. But harming a tourist seems to be a no-no. But don't push the envelope. Don't walk by yourself in questionable areas at night. Take a taxi if you are unsure of where you are.



		. Piazza Erbe in Verona
Our Tourist Policeman in Egypt	. On a Felucca in Cairo

Behavior

My tours work, mainly because I have a great group of travelers! If this is your first BET trip, you will notice that everybody seems to know each other, having travelled together on past tours. Not to worry--they will invite you in and make you feel like an experienced BETVet within a couple of days. You will notice that I don't operate on a “the customer is always right” basis. I do interact on the tour to try to keep the conflicts at a minimum. After 50+ tours I have noticed that there are three behavioral patterns that drive fellow travelers up the wall--constant tardiness, inappropriate talking, and mooching. Here are some guidelines:

Be on time! There is nothing more annoying than waiting over and over for the same prima donna. Ill give the offender the benefit of the doubt the first time. We will have a little chat after the second time. The third time the group may be gone and the tardy one will be left behind.

Silence is golden. It is not necessary to voice every thought. Consider your audience before launching into yet another monologue.

Don't be a mooch. Pay back what you borrow. Often on multi-currency tours, it is necessary to lend (or borrow). Pay back in that currency as soon as you can. Also, on the tours where I am not able to pay for dinner drinks, pick up your share of the drink tab. One glass out of a bottle of wine is 1/5 of that bottle. Either pay back the host at that point or pick up the next round.

Help each other, relate to each other, and pool information. The tour is not a competition. If you have some information that someone else may need, share it!

Honor your commitments. If you say you are going to meet someone in the lobby at 9:00, be there (even if you got a better offer).

Take care of yourself and don't interfere with others' taking care of themselves. It is more than annoying when “good time Charlie” gets sick after four straight days of overindulgence. All too often, the bug then gets passed around.

Don't mess with the itinerary on travel days.

Be considerate of your roommate. And that goes particularly for married couples!

Dress appropriately for group dinners. This doesn't mean coat and tie or the basic black dress. Just give us all a break from the tourist tee shirt.

And finally,have a great time!

In the very rare instances of a behavioral problem developing and an individual is compromising the experience of other tour members (constant tardiness, missing scheduled events, inappropriate behavior), I will first confront the individual as to the problem. If an agreement can't be reached, the person may be asked to leave the tour and travel independently until the return flight. In this unlikely event, I will reimburse the person for the unused portion of the tour either in US$$ or local currencies, solely at my discretion.

SMOKING: My tours are "non-smoking." This doesn't mean that smokers are excluded. It does mean that the clean air folk get a chance at the air first. Let me know if you do smoke so I can book you into smoking areas when they are available. There will be no smoking at meals, group gatherings, or on common carriers that are group exclusive.

There is no drinking age in Europe, and wine at dinner is the norm. I think that most BETVETS would agree that some of the most fun and funniest times were often somewhat alcohol induced, i. e., the night in Budapest, sunsets at the rocca in San Gimignano, dinners at Le Niaidi in Rome and the Trattoria all'Antica Mola in Venice, and the New Year's Eve Gala in London. But there have also been some low moments--missed opportunities, snarled relationships because of misunderstandings, and some monumental hangovers. Have a good time, but take care of yourself.

HEALTH: It may seem odd to discuss health in a chapter on behavior, but the two are often related. Most of the health problems that I have witnessed (and experienced) are gastrointestinal and/or upper respiratory. Yes, there have been some heart problems, twisted ankles and knees, and a broken leg, but most problems are far more minor—and perhaps avoidable.

Keep in mind that my doctorate is in Choral Music Education and not in medicine. However, I've run this section by my internist and any number of BETVET doctors and nurses. Some suggestions:

Wash your hands regularly, particularly during and after the flight or on any other public transportation.

Drink lots of water. The water is safe in Europe. You can drink it anywhere that you would drink it in America.

Go easy on the alcohol, particularly early on the trip. Pace yourself. You don't have to set a “personal best,” night after night.

Bring Claritin or some other antihistamine in case you have an allergic reaction to smoke, feathers, or some other allergen that you didn't even know about.

Ask your care provider for a prescription for whatever has laid you low in the past. There is nothing worse than coming down with a bug and knowing that there is a specific drug out there that could stop it in its tracks—but you don't have it.

Go to bed at a reasonable hour. The “O-my-gosh-I’m-in-Europe-and-I-want-to-see-everything!!!” syndrome will do you in. If you try to go full tilt for two weeks, you aren't going to make it.

Eat healthy. It is not necessary to have the gooey dessert night after night. Choose fruit instead. Eat vegetarian for lunch every once in a while.

Food, glorious food

BETVETS know that I travel to eat. BETVETS return again and again for the food. Sampling a country's cuisine is a wonderful way to get to know the culture. And, you have to eat anyway to survive. You are fed well on a BET tour. Bon appetit! Buon appetivo!

Our first meal of the day is breakfast at the hotel and usually consists of a buffet, though some of the hotels are still only offering a continental breakfast of bread-rolls-croissant and coffee-tea-milk. The buffets can be quite extensive--cold cuts, cheese, eggs, sausage, bacon, cold and hot cereals, yogurt, juices, and/or fresh fruit. And if only a continental breakfast is offered, usually the steamed milk and wonderful coffee will make up for the lack of choices. You may be confronted with some options that you wouldn't usually consider for breakfast. Sample or ignore them. Even when what you consider for a “normal” breakfast is not available, you can make some substitutions from what is on the table.

For lunch, you will usually be on your own. I will feed you well at dinner--probably you will not need an extensive, expensive repast for lunch. In most of the cities we will visit, there are open-air markets where you can find lunch makings. Or you can find a charcuterie in France or a salumeria in Italy. And the ubiquitous snack bar is universal. A surprisingly good place for lunch can be found in many of the museums that we are visiting. Feed your eyes and then your tummy. A light lunch at the museum cafeteria can send you back to the galleries ready for more food for thought.

Our dinners together will vary. Some restaurants will serve a one-size-fits-all tourist menu (menu turistica, prix fixe). Most will give us a choice of entrees within the menu turistica format. Other restaurants will allow us to order straight from the menu. In this case, I'll give you a price limit and you will stay within it or pay the difference. In countries where mineral water and wine are the norm (France, Italy, Spain), I will usually include them. In other countries, I will ask you to pay for what you consume. Another note: in the more formal environments, please dress accordingly.

And speaking of drinks: The norm is mineral water and/or wine. You can order tap water, and if you can make yourself understood, the waiter usually will bring it. Mineral water comes either still or carbonated. I prefer the carbonated; others don't like the bubbles. As far as wine, don't bother to order specific labels or varietals unless you really know what you are doing, as the house wine will usually be a fine local wine. Coke, Fanta and other soft drinks are available, but often at extra cost. Iced tea has now become popular in Europe, but it is treated as a soft drink, not the unlimited numbers of glasses as in Southern regions of America. Coffee (extra cost) comes at the end of the meal in Europe, with the dessert.

And yes, in spite of the prevalence of bottled waters at the restaurants, you can drink the water anywhere in Europe that you would be able to drink it in America: In your hotel room, in the restaurants, in public drinking fountains (when you can find them.) Yes, you can drink the water!



A simple bowl of soup in Sofia, Bulgaria		In Oaxaca, even the departed get to join the feast once a year during The Day of the Dead
	And these are just the appetizers in Greece

Money matters

PAYMENTS: BET is a small operation, which means that I have very low overhead. Which means that I can pass the savings on to you. However, I do have pre-tour expenses, deposit deadlines for the hotels and the airlines, concert tickets to purchase months before the event. Pre payments are the only way that I can offer these trips.

You may devise any number of ways to meet the obligation. You may start monthly payments at any time. Or you can pay half when you first sign on (or seven months before the tour, whichever comes first) and then the balance when I ticket with the airline. Or you can divide the total by three or four and send it in. Whichever way you choose, all payments must be completed one month before departure.

I prefer checks made out to Barker's European Tours rather than cash. You will be provided with remittance envelopes for your payments. Or you can pay through your bill pay service with your bank.

It is possible to pay by credit card, but there will be a surcharge of 3% for the land portion of the tour. There is no surcharge for the airfare or rail portions. This is not a “revenue enhancement” scheme as I am charged 3% by the bank for all credit charges. If you still want to use a credit card, work out the arrangements with Sara Lewis, but obviously we would rather that you paid by check.

STATEMENTS: Sara will send you monthly statements where you will see a record of your payments and the balance due. My only problem with the bookkeeping program that we use is that I have yet to figure out how to keep the statement from showing that everything you owe is due. Just ignore the bottom line until I can figure out how to tell this program to lighten up. Sara may also include tour updates on the back of the statement, or on separate pages.

HOW MUCH $?$?$?: The question that comes up most often is, "How much money do I need to take on the tour?" Rather than copping out with "pack light and carry large bills," here are some thoughts that might help. Your breakfasts and dinners are covered but you will need to provide for your lunches. Figure on $5.00 for a cheap lunch and $30.00 for a splurge. If you live to eat, figure on the high side. If you eat to live, go low. Drinks are not always included with the meals--often you will end up paying for water. And teetotalers: soft drinks are usually as expensive as wine and beer.

Entertainment expenses will vary, and I am providing you with a number of attractions as part of the tour. However, there may be other concerts and events that you want to go to that are not on the itinerary. That leaves shopping, and there is no way I can predict what you will need. Bottom line, absolute bare minimum--figure $25.00 a day. And that does not include shopping!

As you realize, you can't spend US dollars in Europe. You will have to exchange your dollars into the currency of the country or countries that we will visit. The value of the dollar changes on a daily basis, depending on a number of factors that are far beyond the scope of this discussion. It's not that complicated, but it is somewhat like other life experiences--you usually won't understand it until you've actually done it. Briefly, there is an official rate of exchange. When you exchange your money, the bank will start with the official rate of exchange and then charge a commission and a percentage (anywhere from 5-10%) of the amount changed. In other words, every time you change money it costs you. Don't convert too much or you will end up paying double if you have to convert some back at the end of the trip.

I can't stress enough that the best way to change money any more is to use an ATM card . You will pay your bank a modest $1.00—$1.50 fee plus 1% (a bargain) for the transaction. Cash machines are widely available in most of the major cities--there are even two of them in the small village where I live. They work in Europe the same way they do here with one major exception—they use numbers only more often than numbers and letters. MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR PIN BY NUMBER RATHER THAN LETTER. If one machine turns you down, don't panic. Find another machine and try again.

ATM machines will also take your Visa, MasterCard or American Express cards in Europe--if you make the arrangements before the trip. With the credit cards, there will be a surcharge.

More traditional ways consist of converting some money before the tour, though I do not recommend it . Locally, your own bank can provide you with foreign currencies , but you will usually have to make the arrangements ahead of time. Of course you can change money at the airport, but the rate is usually so absurdly high it would make a Mafiosi don blush. Again, use your ATM card after you get to Europe.

Take some of your cash in dollars. If you carry $100.00 bills, make sure you get the new ones. European banks will no longer accept the old bills.

Notice that I am not recommending Travelers Checks as they have gone the way of a letter of recommendation from your banker. Not only are travelers checks hard to deal with, ATM cards are simply far superior. Also, you don't need to carry all that much cash--use credit cards for any purchases. Please do not bring Travelers Checks. (On just about every tour, we will have one novice who shows up with Travelers Checks and then has a difficult time cashing them. Please excuse my lack of sympathy.)

In all of this, make sure that you have more than one way to access your funds. Carry some US$$, an ATM card and a credit card or two. If you have an American Express card, take along a check or two as you can cash a check up to a $1,000.00 a month at any American Express office.

Since the introduction of the euro (€), life is much easier for Americans. Not only can we travel from country to country without changing money, the euro is much more similar to our own currency than most of the previous currencies. I only have one caveat: The smallest bill is a €5.00. There are €2.00 and €1.00 coins, along with .50, .20, .10, .05, .02 and .01.If you are not careful, you can end up with a lot of pocket ballast. When you are asked to pay a bill of, say, €3.20, don't just automatically pull out a bill. Chances are you have that much change in your pocket. I do recommend a change purse. It does make life easier.

IMPORTANT NOTICE TO PARENTS OF DEPENDENT TRAVELERS: Please read the above paragraphs and make sure your son or daughter has access to emergency funds while on the tour. Wiring money to your offspring is difficult, expensive and slow. It is much easier to make preparations for an emergency before the trip.

And finally, now that you have brought enough of it, and have not lost any of it to gypsies or pickpockets, you might want to spend some of your money on . . . .

Shopping

It took me a long time to understand the attraction of shopping in Europe but I've adjusted. Not only can you find arts and crafts from the local area, but also you can find manufactured items that aren't carried by USA stores. Also, I like to go into department stores just to see what is offered, see what the locals are buying. It is another way of getting to know the people.

Based on personal experience and the suggestions of previous groups, here is a list of do's and don'ts:

Do use a credit card for major purchases. You'll get the best rate of exchange.

Do look for items that are unique to the city, region or country: glass and masks in Venice; paper, leather goods--coats, gloves--in Florence; majolica pottery in Tuscany; mosaics in Ravenna, perfume in Paris, carved wood from Bavaria, handicrafts from everywhere.

Don't expect to see the same items throughout Europe or even throughout a country; i.e., don't try to buy a mask in Ravenna or mosaics in Florence, or leather in Venice.

Do remember the dictum, "if you buy it, you carry it." Use a charge card and ship home if you buy large and/or expensive items. Consider bringing along a sturdy duffel bag rolled into your bag for souvenirs.

Don't commit yourself to buying particular items for everyone at home. If you run into something small, inexpensive, appropriate and unique, buy it. Otherwise, buy postcards along the way, or some candy or cookies at the duty-free shop on the way home and be done with it. (Frankly, I get a little tired of watching some first-time travelers spend 90% of their time trying to find the perfect nick-knacks for everyone back home or chasing around trying to fill an "order.")

Do look for Christmas or birthday presents, purchases that you would be making anyway. You can come up with some unique gifts.

Don't waste your money on manufactured goods that you can buy in the States.

Do think of picking up museum guidebooks, note cards, and postcards, at your favorite museums. That way you can relive your experience over and over after you get home. Some of the books are unique, not available anywhere else (and it is fun to read the mangled English in the translations.) Along the same line, look for reproductions (both painting and sculpture) and posters at the museum shops. These items are truly unique to the museum, city and region. But don't forget: YOU BUY IT, YOU CARRY IT!!

And that's all folks. I look forward to traveling with you!

Thanks to all of the BETVETS who have contributed to this booklet, and particularly the sadly, now-departed Allan Nowotny for all of his support throughout the years.

General policy for all BET Tours

Pricing

Prices for the tours will be set approximately one year before departure, and are based on a specific number of paying passengers, current advertised round trip airfares, an estimate of the cost of hotels, meals, rail and ground transportation, with some allowance for inflation and currency fluctuations. If true costs are lower than the original estimate, the price of the tour will be lowered by an amount up to 5% of the original price. If the costs are higher, the price may be raised, up to 5%. The prices are used to be based on my arranging all air and rail transportation, but the situation has changed recently. On some tours I will still arrange for the air, but increasingly you can beat any price I am given. The price quotes are based on double occupancy in hotels (triples occasionally may be necessary with single, unattached travelers). Single occupancy may be available at additional cost. NOT INCLUDED: Personal expenses such as passport fees, meals not covered by the itinerary, shopping, etc.

Reservations--Cancellations--Refunds

Reservations are accepted starting one year before each of the tours and tours are filled on a first-come, first served basis. (I reserve the right to refuse to accept a deposit from someone who has caused problems on a previous tour.) If the minimum number for the tour has not been reached six months before the tour, I may cancel the tour and return all deposits. A $100.00 per person deposit will hold your place. Seven months before the tour, you are to begin payments with the entire balance to be paid one month before departure. If you should need to cancel after making a deposit and/or payments:
-After your initial deposit but seven months before departure: 100% of your payments will be returned, subject to a $25.00 administrative fee.
-Between six and four months before departure: up to $100 retained, plus any non-refundable payments that have been made to other agencies.
-Within four months of departure: up to $250 will be retained, plus any non-refundable payments that have been made to other agencies.
-After ticketing with the airline or within a month of the tour: I will return everything that I don't spend directly on you.
All cancellations must be in writing. You may use E-mail, but make sure that I acknowledge receipt of your message.

Limitations-Requirements

Participants on these tours are limited to one piece of luggage and a carryon. Again, I highly recommend an internal frame backpack/suitcase if you are young, or upright wheeled luggage as described earlier (JanSport, Eagle Creek) available through Good Sports at a substantial discount to all BET travelers. In every case, all participants must be physically capable of handling their own bag. These tours are designed for active adults and college age students. Younger students and senior citizens are welcome--provided they are independent travelers. I reserve the right to cancel a person's participation before a tour if it becomes obvious to me that the activities may be too strenuous.

Senior BETVet Program

In acknowledgment of the contributions of my many repeat clients, I have established a simple “frequent traveler” program. After three European tours (one of which must be an extended train/public transportation tour), I will deduct $100.00 from the price of any subsequent tour. I wish I could offer more, but then I do not charge that much for the tours in the first place.



City Hall in Perugia	“Rock and rubble” in Sermione	Up the steps to the Basilica San Francesco, in Assisi